For me Matthew Miller is the great unsung hero of LC:M. He’s always a season or two ahead of his contemporaries and never fails to present a challenging, forward thinking aesthetic. For SS15 I have to be honest and say there is a strong Raf Simons vibe to the collection but that’s fine by me. It’s a late 90’s Raf vibe, and nowadays the Raf aesthetic that I loved has become horribly diluted by the aesthetics of Jil Sander and Dior. What this collection channels is the intangible poignancy of teenage melancholia. The models wore Morriseyesque flower garlands adding a poetic beauty to the outfit especially when juxtaposed with the pinstripes. There is a clever subversion at work when creating casual denim looks out of pinstripe, turning the material’s connotations of formal wear and suiting on its head. This aesthetic dichotomy combined with the velcro patches (featuring typically rebellious teenage proclamations like “Anti-Society“) are what made this one of the best shows at LC:M. It’s rare that I see a show and immediately begin fretting about whether or not I’ll be able to get my hands on the clothes before the show is even over, but that’s exactly what I was doing at Matthew Miller.
Richard Nicoll seems to be defining his signature aesthetic with each passing season. A few years ago I would have struggled to explain to someone what he’s about as a designer but with each new collection it becomes more and more evident. For SS15 futuristic fabrics, metallics and sleek styling kept everything modern and fresh.
I’ve mentioned this plenty of times before but I’m not a huge fan of Spring-Summer collections, especially for menswear. I’m pleased to say I was overall pretty impressed with LC:M this season – you can read about the stuff I was less impressed with next week when retro-fetishism gets what’s coming to it.