Monsieur Robot – Ubi Sunt AW12-13

When scanning through the schedule for Stockholm Fashion Week Ubi Sunt wasn’t a name I recognised, but then this is only their second collection. I was blown away by the show, in fact I can’t think of many designers whose collections were so complete, so sumptuously well realised or exciting at this stage in their career. Minimal, chic, sophisticated,  I could list a hundred adjectives – but really the clothes will do all the talking on their own.

Despite a muted palette the combination of reflective textures, almost sheer knits and intricate layering gave the collection a tonality and depth that drew a focus towards the subtleties of cut and shape.
Necklines seemed to define the collection, Japanese jersey turtlenecks, lapel-less jackets in Italian wool and cut away collar shirts in cotton silk blends could easily form the core staples of your wardrobe. I should give a special mention to the shoes too, as Ive been obsessing about them ever since the I saw the show. A shoe fetishist’s work is never done…

The double breasted jacket was turned from ‘traditional’ into starkly modern when rendered in swiss silk blends, unconstructed, cropped and with hidden closures. Not to forget the draped jackets and wide leg wool trousers, all of which deftly straddled both classic and modern at the same time, which is no easy feat. Ubi Sunt, I salute you.

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