The menswear collections in Milan have been a mixed bag for me. Some of the labels I was really looking forward to have turned out a little flat, a little sombre. Kim Jones collection for Louis Vuitton seemed stripped of all the youth and vibrance that made it so exciting last season. In fact in some places it seemed more like parody than high end fashion – berets? really? As a great woman once said about the beret “Patty Hearst couldn’t even pull one off and she had money, and a gun”.
Mugler was also a little on the sensible side, collarless jackets and a toned down aesthetic took over from the sexed up sci-fi style the label has shown recently. There was a focus on capes though which I’m all for, even if some of them verged into Dracula territory…
, on the other hand, presented one of their best shows in years. Shearling biker jackets, crocodile skin brogues and a beautifully sumptuous autumnal palette made for a very wearable collection. Printed trousers (a huge trend this season), briefcases and a sexy sheen tied the whole collection together. I don’t think I’ve lusted after Gucci clothes for years, it’s nice to have them back.
Another show that didn’t let me down was Westwood
. Vivienne never lets me down! Bright turquoise and yellow shoes, tartan accessories and totally bonkers frosted beard and moustache styling. The squiggle print was glimpsed on jean turn ups and classic styles were reworked in new fabrics. Oh! I almost forgot, there were leggings too. That woman will not rest until she sees me in leggings…
Last but not least is Versace
. No rundown of Milan Fashion Week would be complete without a look at what the most Italian
of all Italians has been up to. Apparently drunk on the high street success of the label’s collection for H&M, Donatella’s runway pieces seemed more gaudy and over the top than ever before and I’m glad they did. Would I wear it? No, probably not, but I love it nevertheless.